Wiring relays and the Bakelight plug for the 90/130W I did the Bakelight plug upgrade and installed a 90w/130w bulb in my Connie about a month ago. Ditto on my buddy Mike's Connie. DO NOT use the 3M film over your headlight cover with the big bulb. It heated up the insides and blew the fuse in a jiffy. Otherwise, I have had no problems at all on these bikes. My Honda's have all been happy with the flamethrowers in them for years. Soon I plan on adding dual relays. With the relays, the bulb will burn brighter because it is getting all the juice it wants and no longer straining the stock wiring. Here's the details for doing the job. After I do it, I can get specific on lengths, etc. It's 1AM so bear with me as I am going from memory on all of this :-) NEED: Bakelight plug - NAPA LS 6235 (OK not memory, I looked it up) 10guage or better hookup wire RED to run from the batt to the light 2 Automotive Relays - label them HI and LO (for ex. Radio Shack PN# 275-226 - OK I looked that up too) Solder and iron 30A fuse and fuseholder Spade connectors sized to fit the stock plug Dieletric grease Strip of plastic to mount the relays to Volt meter Heat shrink tubing Ring terminal to mount to the battery or your Aux power block (get 2) 2 short pieces of scrap wire about 14 or 16 guage - preferably different colors but no biggie 1 scrap of BLACK wire to be used as gound for our switches - 14 guage is fine. Zip ties OFF the bike: Mount your relays to the small strip of plastic or whatever you have. Take the new Bakelight plug and line it up to the stock plug and mark the wires to remind yourself which is high beam, low beam, and ground. Crimp/solder a spade connector on the ground wire from the Bakelight plug and use the shrink tubing. (Although the spade connectors you bought might be crimp on, solder them in addition to crimping) Take the High beam wire from the BAKELIGHT plug and solder it to the 87 leg of whichever relay you will label HI (hibeam). Again shrink tubing the solder joint. Solder the Low beam wire from the BAKELIGHT to the 87 leg of your relay you marked LO (lowbeam). shrink tubing here too. ON THE BIKE Run your red 10 guage wire from the battery, (do NOT connect it to the battery, just add the ring terminal and solder/shring tubing). As closely as possible to the battery, add in the fuseholder for the 30A fuse - shrink tubing too. Neatly run the wire to the front of the bike near the headlight. Once you get to the area of the headlight, cut the wire for length and then splice in 2 pieces of 10 guage wire so that you can power both relays (picture a Y). Be sure to use a strong splice and then solder and shrink wrap. Solder and shrink tube the two red wires to the 30 legs of each relay. Using this same idea, make a "Y" with the ground wire and solder/shrink tube the ground wires to the 85 legs of each relay. Attach the free end of the new black ground wire to something metal close by, like a bolt with another ring connector - crimp/solder/shrink, or else run it back to the battery and connect it there with a ring connector. (if anyone grounds it close and finds for some weird reason you are getting noise on your CB then run it to the battery instead). Take your 2 scrap pieces of 14 or 16 guage and crimp/solder/shrink tube spade connectors to one end on each. Solder/shrink tube the other ends to the 86 legs of each relay. Now get your dieletric grease and pack each female connector on both the Bakelight plug and the stock plug. Plug the spade (ground) from the Bakelight plug into the stock plug. Now, plug in the APPROPRIATE plugs from the HI and LO relays into the stock plug in their respective female recepticles. CHECK ALL OF YOUR WIRING (and my damn instructions) A FEW TIMES. Then connect to the battery. Add your 30A fuse and check for ANY problems. Look and smell for mistakes that you missed. If all is cool, then fire up the bike and smile. Worked well? GOOD! Now, use the zip ties to keep it out of the way and neat and then go ride ride ride!!!!! Once you see how easy this is, you can figure out how to do it with one relay to wire up aux. lights or a set of horns. You only need 2 relays because of the dual filament issue with the headlight bulb. Other projects should be easier. In this case, we have power from the battery making a relatively uninterrupted trip to the filament. The stock wiring is NOT butchured and can be returned to use in a few minutes with no ill effects. The stock wiring now only provides ground and switching voltage to the relay. This job doesn't require much of the stock system and you have the convenience of using all the stock controls too. There is no need for new switches because we are still using the stock wiring for switching. This idea will work for your driving light setup or horns too. In those cases you can "tap into" the already switched horn button, etc. Feel free to add any ideas or make corrections to this post!!!!!! Wally