All about Race Tech Cartridge Emulators I got a couple questions about the Race Tech install procedures so let me just clarify it a bit. The only reason Race Tech tells you to disassemble the forks is so that you can remove the damper tubes. You have to drill some additional holes in the damper tubes for the emulators to work properly. Having taken the forks apart several times before, I figured out a way to remove the damper tubes without taking the forks off the bike or separating the two fork halves. It is rather easy. All you have to do is remove the top caps and springs. Then take off the front wheel. Now you need a tool to insert into the forks to hold the damper rod from turning. I have a rather large bolt head welded to a socket that does the trick. (Note: I have heard a broomstick handle can be used but have never tried it myself.) Once you have the tool in place, loosen and remove the bottom allen bolt in the fork legs. Have a pan ready to catch the fork oil in. Once the bolt is out the damper rod is now free and it can be extracted. I suppose you could turn the bike upside down and shake it (humor injected into serious post) but I got mine out by collapsing the fork and pushing the damper tube out from the bottom by inserting a small dowel into the bolt hole. I "hooked" the lip of the damper rod with the dowel and simply pushed it out the top of the tube until I could grab it. You could probably just as easily insert a broomstick handle into the top and "jam" it into the top of the hollow damper rod and then lift it out. Once the damper rods are out and drilled, you simply re-install them and re-install the bottom allen and washer. One note on re-assembly, since you only removed the damper rods and not the damper springs you have to be sure the dampers drop all the way down to the bottom and find their home in the bottom of the fork. You also have to be sure the ends of the damper rods fit back into the cylinder base. Mine fell right back in place with no fuss and I was able to get the allen bolt to thread right back in. You might have to "fish" the damper rods around a bit to get them into place, but it shouldn't be a difficult. Now just drop the emulators on top of them. They will fall right into place on top of the damper rod. Then install the Race Tech springs and cut your pre-load pipe sections (supplied in the Race Tech kit). Race tech recommends 1 inch of fork spring pre-load to start with. I set my pre-load adjusters on my fork caps to half way in, and then cut the sections of pipe so I had 1 inch of pre-load. I then dialed the adjusters on the emulators to 2 turns in. In order to get my sag set properly I had to back off the pre-load adjusters on the fork spring caps a couple turns. This took me to about 3/4 inch of pre-load for the proper static and loaded sag for my weight (190). I later had to "fish" out the emulator valves and back them off to 1 turn, as 2 turns made it ride too stiff for my weight and tastes. After about 7K miles now I am real happy with these settings. Fred Harmon Fort Worth, TX.