A collection of notes, tips and tricks about the Kawasaki ZG1000 Concours, collected from the Concours Owners Group e-mail list.
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size: 1503bytes, modified on 2004-08-13 16:36
The forks on the Concours are wimpy compared to current, more sport oriented bikes. The ZG's forks are 40 mm across. Upgrading to thicker, stiffer tubes would require serious machine work to the Concours' triple clamps and clip on . . .
size: 914bytes, modified on 2004-08-13 16:36
The only thing that connects the fork sliders together is the front axle. Without it, bumps and side forces let the sliders work out of synch with eachother. These forces bend the axle and allow the front wheel to wobble. The fork brace grips the top of the sliders and forces them to act as a . . .
size: 7815bytes, modified on 2004-04-25 10:08
Was doing some web work tonight, scanning and writing - anybody up for a trip down memory lane? [ photos removed from web - sorry. wengland ] . . .
size: 337bytes, modified on 2004-04-07 10:11
Emgo: 10-37500 Fram: CH6012 Hastings: LF571 Honda: 15410-426-010 . . .
size: 1263bytes, modified on 2003-02-21 11:42
Really simple....Make sure bike is warmed up so go for a half hour or so ride before hand... 1) Get syncronizer . . .
size: 1443bytes, modified on 2003-01-13 21:12
Someone asked if there was an alternative to the special tool mention in the Kawi shop manual for tightening the steering head. . . .
size: 1418bytes, modified on 2002-09-02 10:08
My highway pegs -- well, John Hildebran's highway pegs -- arrived today. All I can say is that the web pictures I had seen do not do them justice. These are quality parts. The design is cool and . . .
size: 1502bytes, modified on 2002-07-01 14:35
Or just some instructions ( I did not write these, so credit must go elsewhere ) - 1. This one is really easy . . .
size: 1453bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:17
More than likely you have a cocked cylinder in the brake housing,,or a bad or rusty pin in the brake. Just lift the caliper off the bike without disconnecting it from the hydraulics and remove the pads. . . .
size: 879bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:16
(Referring to Galfer pads) Black 1052: GG-rated compound. The 1052 is a semi-metallic compound that works in any terrain condition. . . .
size: 777bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:16
The Streetpilot will fit above the dashboard on a pre-94 Connie, next to the clock. The mount cam be VERY simple, a bent metal bracket that attaches to the mounting screws for the grill on the dash. I went even simpler. Mine is stuck to the dash with the mushroom-type Velcro along the front edge of the . . .
size: 646bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:15
I've got Life Brites which are clones of Hyper-lites. I like them -- they flash for about 5 secs then stay solid, came with brackets to . . .
size: 679bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:15
I think it is safe to say that the highest wattage bulb that gives minimal trouble is an 80/100w - IF - your socket appears to be good and tight when you un-plug it. If it feels wimpy, then you may have a problem with contact resistance, which means a heat build-up, which means a melted socket. . . .
size: 634bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:14
Someone was after a replacement Rec/Reg for their Connie. Check out > http://www.electrexusa.com/rrlist.htm >There are no prices but they list the RG25 unit as the one for the Connie. > . . .
size: 307bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:12
Before that, I used a "$3 GPS mount" several times. Consists of velcro and a snap-apart key chain. . . .
size: 294bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:12
So you'd like to remove that nut off the rear axle, but you don't have one of those furrin 27 mm sockets. Well, go ahead and use a good 'ol mericun 1 1/16 inch socket, it measures out to 26.9875 mm and you'll . . .
size: 1307bytes, modified on 2002-03-13 17:11
You can fix the existing petcock, but you can also add a separate inline shutoff valve after the petcock. I got one at Menard's from the plumbing department. You will need some additional fuel line to put the valve in an accessible position (but not too much, that would slow the switch to . . .
size: 13446bytes, modified on 2002-03-07 22:20
Valve procedure : http://www.morrowmarsh.ca/concours/techpages/valves.htm Photos of what it'll look like: . . .
size: 7642bytes, modified on 2002-03-07 09:39
I recently purchased and installed this unit on my '94 Concours. It was recommended by fellow COGger, Les Greenough of Melbourne, Australia. He has been using one for 4 years. . . .
size: 1787bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 14:01
1)Clutch star spring (*easy to fix*) you will notice a pulsing in the clutch lever when shifting if she has problems with this....Some of the earlier bikes (and some newer I think) had a problem wherre the nut and . . .
size: 1039bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:38
Try the COG archives. They're especially great for us impatient types. As in the little bratty girl in Willy Wonka, "I want it NOW!" The geeks out there may have another/better method, but here goes mine: . . .
size: 493bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:37
> I thought I'd as if there is an alternate > (read this as cheaper) source for OEM parts. . . .
size: 2090bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:36
Be advised that the following is a shortcut and should NOT be consistantly used in lieu of the recommended wheel removal procedure outlined in the Service Manual. The full procedure has you remove the entire final drive assembly during scheduled maintenance intervals so that the pinion splines . . .
size: 10538bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:33
Reprinting my "40K Miles on a Y2k Connie", but with the service from the last 10,000 miles so that this is a record of stuff done to my Y2k Conc for the last 50k miles. I hit 50,000 miles today, and changed the oil and filter at dad's shop at 50,004 miles after work. . . .
size: 404bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:32
The oil in the rear shock can be changed with the rear rim on. I think the toughest part of the procedure is finding the Racing Suspension Fluid! David Morrow has loaded my pix/steps onto his site (thank you David), and Guy and Brian will be in the near future (and my thanx to them). You can . . .
size: 2040bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:31
Guy Youngs step by step procedure to replace the throttle cables. Now, pop a couple of Prozac, or a bottle or three of your favorite brew, sit back and take a deep breath before proceeding. . . .
size: 1471bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:30
If it is still not coming out, check to see if (I don't know it's official name) an air deflector behind the radiator and just in front of the cover is pushing into to cover. Just push it forward and down to get it out of the way. Also don't expect to make "big moves" with the cover. You lift it . . .
size: 2386bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:29
Going to swap tires, eh? Here's what you'll need. You'll need a 12mm allen, 8mm allen, 27mm socket and a helper. Pulling the front is simple. Just loosen the 8mm pinch bolts, twist the 12mm axle . . .
size: 2035bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:26
(1) Pull the tank, pull the plugs, and squirt about three to six ounces of motor oil down the spark plug holes. Replace the plugs and DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT start the engine. Keep your fingers far away from the ignition switch and the starter button. . . .
size: 3955bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:25
I did the actual real-world test with my new driving light bulbs in today, to see exactly what the bike can handle for current draw. This file is a keeper if you are an electrical accessory junkie, like I am. . . .
size: 1499bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:24
What I learned from that is: Take off the right inner fairing panel. To do that, take the cover off the pocket, remove the three screws in the pocket, and the two screws on the inner fairing piece. There's a kind of lip that holds the pocket in, and you have to pull up and back (if I remember right) . . .
size: 909bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:23
Check out the Bike-Comm web site at http://www.bikecomm.com.au/ I have had this system for three seasons and I am very pleased with it. It would be a bargain if the price were in US funds but it s a steal considering the Australian dollar is worth about US$0.53. Shipping is no problem. Delivery . . .
size: 1673bytes, modified on 2002-02-28 08:22
In order for you to get the desired amount of volume out of your new horns you need to do 2 things. First, make sure the horn body is not touching anything so . . .
size: 2646bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:37
Chad provided a short list of aftermarket switches. If you need more, here's all the interchange info I have at the moment. Most of it came from Mitech's web site, via a note Chad posted a while back; it's presented here in a readable form... . . .
size: 764bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:37
The cheap alternative is M6 body bolts, available at many auto parts stores or auto body supply shops (check your yellow pages). Some hardware stores even carry them (e.g., Home Depot). They're black, come with a plastic washer, and are available in a variety . . .
size: 1711bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:33
Headlamp (assume 80/100 low beam) 80w Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17w Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16w Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16w . . .
size: 1405bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:32
Splines are the "teeth" on a shaft that allow it to transfer torque to the mating part and also allow the two parts to slide a bit, so as not to bind. Putting a good, low-friction grease on them keeps the parts from wearing as they slide back and forth. . . .
size: 540bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:27
After reading the shop manual procedure last winter I just danged near had an attack. Jeez; remove the headers just to drain and flush the coolant? Gedoudahere. . . .
size: 682bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:27
I unscrew the sheath from the drive unit, remove the inner cable, place it on newspapers spread on the floor. Spray it down liberally with WD-40 and wipe it down from one end to the other. Repeat a couple of times. Grease it with bearing grease using my fingers to rub it into the cable along its full length. Reinsert into sheath, . . .
size: 1399bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:26
Well, with a bit of tips from the COG group, I got the rear wheel removed all by myself. The hardest part was finding the 27mm socket for the axle bolt. Much easier than pulling the front wheel. . . .
size: 1613bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:25
27mm socket (axel nut) 14mm box (mufflers) cotterpin (axel nut) and I can't remember what the brake caliper top pivot bolt is but probably 14 too. The centerstand won't quite get it high enough to slide the wheel out, it . . .
size: 5012bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:24
I did the Bakelight plug upgrade and installed a 90w/130w bulb in my Connie about a month ago. Ditto on my buddy Mike's Connie. DO NOT use the 3M film over your headlight cover with the big bulb. It heated up the insides and blew the fuse in a jiffy. Otherwise, I have had no problems at all on these . . .
size: 3107bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:23
I got a couple questions about the Race Tech install procedures so let me just clarify it a bit. The only reason Race Tech tells you to disassemble the forks . . .
size: 1304bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:23
I won a set of Galfer pads at the Y2K COG national. I called them to find out how to get my pads and to discuss which pads to get. I was told that the Green pad was available for the Concours and was told emphatically to sand the rotors with 600 grit sandpaper before . . .
size: 4626bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:22
OK, I'll assume you have a 100% stock setup and are now contemplating upgrading or just upgraded and are fine tuning. If you are heavier than the 135lb dripping wet tester your stock front springs are prolly too soft! An easy way to get the proper spring rate is to take advantage of Race Tech's . . .
size: 5279bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:21
Suspension settings are a balancing act. The important part of what suspension does is help keep the tyre in contact with the road. . . .
size: 1015bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:18
Get your hands on a simple Vista-Cruise Throttle Lock for a Yamaha (NOT the Universal Vista-Cruise). This version is comprised to two semi-circles of high strength plastic with an anchor tab on one side. You will have to file down the flange on the throttle grip next to the switch housing to install . . .
size: 178bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:16
The seals can also be replaced without removing the fork tubes from the bike. See: http://www.abpsl.com/ncacog/archives/tech/tipsntricks.htm#005 . . .
size: 750bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:14
The two bolts (NOT nuts) inside the fairing only secure the mirror ass'y to the bike. They have nothing to do with keeping the mirror from rotating down. If you have original mirrors, the hardware in the articlating arms keep the . . .
size: 501bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:13
Pep Boys carries Purolator filters, the one you want is ML16812, comes with two o-rings. Less than $5. It cross-references to the Fram CH6012 filter, sometimes comes with CH6012 stamped on the filter itself (same assembly line, perhaps?) . . .
size: 3241bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:12
It cuts down on the buffeting by making your windshield taller. A taller windshield would do the same, except a taller windshield isn't adjustable - when mine is fully extended, I look through it...I wouldn't want a regular windshield that tall. If I flip it down, I look over it. If I open it a little, it blows air into my chest to help to . . .
size: 1290bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:09
Jeff. I have run a bunch of different bulbs. From the high dollar PIAA's to fantzy smantzy import "high efficiency" imports (only thing "high" was them when they made that assessment). For the money, there is only one bulb I will buy from now on and that's the NAPA 100/80 watt made by Wagner. You . . .
size: 2102bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:08
I have just completed my first valve adjustment on my '86 Connie and found out it was not near as hard as I had imagined it to be. I want to thank David Morrow for directing me to his web site Valve . . .
size: 2296bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:08
The (intake) valve heads tulip (deform) and start to sink into the head further and further. You have to keep backing out the screw adjusters to get your clearance back. Eventually you run out of adjuster. At that point the head must be pulled, the seat angles recut, new hardened valves . . .
size: 1187bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 17:00
If the bearing is leaking grease (possibly from overzealous washing -- repeat "bike GOOD, water BAD!"), if they make any noise when you spin the wheel, if the wheel doesn't spin down smoothly after giving it a twirl, if there's any appreciable play, or if the bearing . . .
size: 4959bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:59
Last night I did my first carb sync. As usual I took it nice and slow the first time. I used the Motion Pro Deluxe model that I got from JC Whitney. I wish I had bought the Carbtune II instead. I guess mine is OK but I think the Carbtune may be nicer because there is no assembly involved with it. I . . .
size: 674bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:55
The protrusions at the end of the bar end weights are actually a plastic caps. Take a knife edge and work it down between the body of the weight and the cap at the step. Start on the underside so any marring of the weight won't be as visable. Slowly work your way around until you have a . . .
size: 4014bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:54
<<< Brian Cooper here again, I gust got a 94 Connie and noticed the tool kit is a joke. Can anyone send me a list of recommended tools/sizes to bring on long trips? Im looking for the essentials here. >>> . . .
size: 1784bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:52
I can vouch for the GenMar Peg Kit. It wouldn't seem that an 1 1/2 would make much of a difference, but it did for me. My knees are beat up from skiing mishaps. The knees would stiffen after an hour and my hips would cramp, requiring a stop to walk it off. After the Kit, the knees would last . . .
size: 400bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:40
>Does anyone have the Morgan Carbtune II Carburetor Synchronizer? I was wondering how well it performs? I have one; it's the only one I have ever used and it was dead simple. No . . .
size: 802bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:39
Other than the cost, HeliBars are the way to go. They adjust in so many ways, You will be able to get able any angle (within reason) that you want. . . .
size: 1958bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:36
Remove the left and right inside fairings, the ones with the storage compartments. I think there are 10 screws involved. Remove the windshield. Follow advise in chalkdust about reinstalling. . . .
size: 1675bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:34
They were wanting to bypass the entire stock headlamp circuit so they could replace the existing candle in the front with a high wattage (100/130w) bulb. They were concerned with how many external relays they would need to accomplish this. . . .
size: 1382bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:33
It's almost too simple. Go to Bryan Moody's SE COG page and get the part number for the bakelight socket. It's shaped almost exactly the same as the stock socket. To play it safe, do one wire at a time, then you are less apt to Bargeatize it all up. There is plenty of slack in the stock socket wire . . .
size: 487bytes, modified on 2002-02-27 16:31
This is the funky wrench that works a bit better than a screwdriver and a hammer. . . .
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