will england :: motorcycle notes and tips
will england :: motorcycle notes and tipsThis is probably more than you wanted to know but I had nothing better to do. I prefer driving lights over fog lights because they extend the pattern ahead of the vehicle as well as widening the beam a little. Think of a pear shaped pattern with the fatter end close to the vehicle. They should be mounted even with the headlight, parallel with your line of sight. Mini-Projector type lights are aerodynamically superior but the bigger the reflector the more light projected. A fog light projects a wide oval shaped pattern across the road with little extension forward. They should be mounted lower than the headlight, and out of your line of sight, to prevent the light from reflecting off the Fog/Rain/Snow (I know, I know but this is meant to be general advice) and back into your eyes. The reason for amber fog lights is the same. F/R/S are white and a white bulb's light will reflect back as glare. Amber light provides contrast and even though some will bounce back some will penetrate the weather. The third choice is pencil beams, also called Euro beams. They are long range lights that can illuminate the road a mile or more ahead of your vehicle but are very narrow and don't touch the shoulders. Usually high-powered and big like prison searchlights. Useless in turns, and they tend to promote tunnel vision. These are used in racing but not very practical for street use. Now for the Concours, I suggest Larry Buck's light mount and big ol' driving lights with 4 to 6 inch reflectors. Don't get anything with bulbs higher than 55 watts or you'll run your battery down when you add goodies like brakelights, electric clothing, radios, etc. I first had a cool looking under headlight installation. I changed it quickly. They necessitate a tiny light and their light gets lost within the headlight's beam. Plus there's the chance of the lights hitting the fender. One of the advantages of big lights mounted on the sides is that they make you more conspicuous to the brain dead left turners. I used to have Saeng Nightcutters but needed more light to spot deer and other roadkill on the hoof before I plowed into them. I've ordered PIAA 520 SMRs and will mount them on Larry's mounting. Hella and Catz also make nice lights. If you still want a kit similar to the Cycle Gadget setup see the Electrical Connection's site. Below is a sample of what I've been rambling about: http://hometown.aol.com/lrbuck/myhomepage/business.html http://www.accessconnect.com/piaalamp.htm http://www.saeng.com/cutters_ts.htm http://www.classicgarage.com/classicgarage/accessories-hella-lights-hella-fog---driving-lamps.html http://www.excellentperformance.com/html/catz/msr.html http://www.cbtimports.com/piaa.htm http://www.electricalconnection.com/driving%20lights/dl_concours.htm http://www.cbtimports.com/tolkaw-0003.htm If you want to try a high power headlight bulb get a high temp socket too. (Napa part #LS 6235) A separate wiring harness wouldn't hurt either. That bypasses the OEM wiring and reduces wire resistance for more power to the bulb. http://www.mindspring.com/~gbyoung2/misc/electrical/hdheadlamp1.gif http://www.mindspring.com/~gbyoung2/misc/electrical/hdheadlamp2.gif http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire%20harnesses/hrns_headlight.htm Avoid fork mounted lights like Motolights. Their bulbs are subjected to unsprung shocks and point in the direction the forks are steered. During countersteering that means the light will shine away from the curve not into it. Hope I haven't bored you. I tend to get carried away. Elvin Rivera Williamsville, NY COG# 2536
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